A variation of the loop method can be used to anchor a thread for single thread stitching.
HOW?
Take a single thread and fold it double.
Pull the two ends through the needle.
Find the middle of the pattern.
Push the needle up through the fabric but keep a loop at the back.
Remove one thread from the needle.
Push the remaining thread down the fabric one (or two) holes from the “entry point” (follow your chart).
Pull needle through the loop.
Take hold of both ends of thread and carefully pull tight. Then you take one thread in one direction and the other in the other direction.
source: www.crossstitchzone.com
Tuesday, September 30, 2008
Bullion Stitch
Bullion stitches re created by wrapping thread around the needle and securing it on the fabric. they can be arranged for bud effects or to make little leaves or petals.
Bring the needle up at A amd down at B. Do not pull the thread through. Bring the needle halfway up again at A, but do not pull the needle through the fabric.
Holding the needle from below, wind the thread around the needle. The number of twists will be determined by the length of the stitich aand the thickness of the thread. As a rule, five or six twists are used.
With your left finger and thumb holding the twist just made, ease the needle up through the twist with your right hand. Do not release your hold until the needle goes through. Slowly pull the remainder of the thread up through the twist. Reinsert your needle at B and gently secure the twist against the fabric.
source: www.caron-net.com
Bring the needle up at A amd down at B. Do not pull the thread through. Bring the needle halfway up again at A, but do not pull the needle through the fabric.
Holding the needle from below, wind the thread around the needle. The number of twists will be determined by the length of the stitich aand the thickness of the thread. As a rule, five or six twists are used.
With your left finger and thumb holding the twist just made, ease the needle up through the twist with your right hand. Do not release your hold until the needle goes through. Slowly pull the remainder of the thread up through the twist. Reinsert your needle at B and gently secure the twist against the fabric.
source: www.caron-net.com
Using Blending Filament
There is nothing that can add more sparkle and pizzazz to your cross stitch than blending filament. And possibly nothing more frustrating to work with! But if you know the trick to working with filament, you can enjoy stitching with it! If you don't already know this tip, you are gonna love me for telling you!
The reason the filament tends to split and break is due to the needle sliding up and down on the blending filament as you stitch. To stop this sliding action, knot the filament onto your needle. You can do this by following this easy threading technique:
Cut the required length of blending filament and fold about 5 cm (2 inches) for one end.
Insert loop through eye of needle.
Pull loop over the point of the needle.
Tighten the loop at the end of the eye to secure the thread to the needle.
source: www.crossstitchzone.com
The reason the filament tends to split and break is due to the needle sliding up and down on the blending filament as you stitch. To stop this sliding action, knot the filament onto your needle. You can do this by following this easy threading technique:
Cut the required length of blending filament and fold about 5 cm (2 inches) for one end.
Insert loop through eye of needle.
Pull loop over the point of the needle.
Tighten the loop at the end of the eye to secure the thread to the needle.
source: www.crossstitchzone.com
Wednesday, September 24, 2008
How to Block Your Needlepoint
Most needlepoint pieces are more or less out of square when finished and must be "blocked" so that they are rectangular in shape.
Here's the easy way:
Using a spray bottle with water in it, mist both sides of your piece evenly. No need to soak it or wash it it, just a light dampening is what you want.
Now roll it up (not too tight) and place it in a plastic bag. Close the bag and put it away for eight to twelve hours.
You will need a piece of 1/2" (thickness) plywood. It must, of course, be a bit larger than the needlepoint you intend to block. You can get plywood up to 4' x 8' (four feet by eight feet) at a lumber yard. Lumber yards will cut these into smaller pieces and in fact often have them cut and in stock. Call them before you go. Be sure to get a grade of plywood that is perfectly smooth on at least one side. The softer the wood the better.
While you are out shopping, borrow or buy a carpenter's square.
A carpenter's square is shaped like an "L". It has a rule of 24 inches down one side and 18" on the other leg.
You will also need a carpenter's pencil and a heavy-duty staple machine with a box of 1/4" staples.
This is not an ordinary pencil or staple machine. The staple machine must drive the staples into wood. The pencil is made to mark on wood. You will find these items at the lumber yard or hardware store. You will need a sharp knife to put a point on the pencil.
Find one of the edges on the plywood that was cut by the mill that made the plywood. It will be perfectly straight and probably smoother than the lumber yard cuts. From this accurately cut edge, measure out and mark a line as shown in A.
Then, using the carpenter's square, mark out a line as in B. Next, complete the rectangle allowing a generous margin all around as in C. Now, you can use the square and lay out any size rectangle using the lines you have drawn on the plywood such as the darker area in D. Note: Some expert blockers use masking tape to mark the lines instead of the pencil. This is an equally good method.
This same board can serve for many blockings. Just draw in a new box for each size as you need it. A board like this could be a club or group project.
Now you are ready to remove the dampened needlepoint canvas from the plastic bag and lay it face down (in most cases) on the board.
Use this method for stretching and fitting along the lines you have drawn: Starting at the upper right corner, position it carefully and staple it in place securely. The staple machine must be held firmly and squarely against the work. You may need to practice with the staple machine in an unused area of your board.
Now go to the lower right corner and do the same. Staple it in place.
Go to the lower left corner. Staple it in place.
Go to the upper left corner. Staple it in place.
All corners should be now be fastened securely in place.
Now, straighten the right edge and staple. Next the lower edge. Then the left edge. Finally, the top edge.
If the needlepoint canvas is properly dampened and prepared, it should be just that easy to get it stretched squarely along your lines.
Be careful to staple as far out in the non-worked area of your canvas as possible as the staples may cut some of the fibers of the canvas.
After stapling, put the board in a warm, dry place. Leave it alone for twenty-four hours or until you are satisfied that it is completely dry. Then, remove the staples carefully. A sharpened blade-type screwdriver is the best tool for this. You should have a perfect job.
Can you use nails or tacks to fasten the canvas to the board? Yes, you can use anything you can work with easily. Just remember, you must be able to remove anything you pound into the board!
Do the fasteners have to be rust-proof? No, they are in contact with the canvas for only a short period, then are discarded.
Should the board be painted before using? That is up to you. It couldn't hurt anything.
Can I use other marking pencils and pens on the board? Only at your own risk. We use only the pencil. To prevent any graphite from rubbing off onto your needlepoint, you can spray your markings with a light coat of clear Krylon or other clear quick-drying paint.
I have read that some people have their board covered with gingham and use the squares in the cloth to align their edges. Will that work? Yes, this method has been used for many, many years. The key to using gingham successfully is getting it straight and fastened to the board. Not as easy as it sounds.
Are there any real pitfalls? Maybe. Many pieces have been ruined by soaking in water, washing with various soaps, and dry cleaning. Even the light dampening that we use can cause some marking pen marks to bleed and ruin your work. Many marking pens that are supposed to be permanent are not!
source: www.needlepointfun.com
Here's the easy way:
Using a spray bottle with water in it, mist both sides of your piece evenly. No need to soak it or wash it it, just a light dampening is what you want.
Now roll it up (not too tight) and place it in a plastic bag. Close the bag and put it away for eight to twelve hours.
You will need a piece of 1/2" (thickness) plywood. It must, of course, be a bit larger than the needlepoint you intend to block. You can get plywood up to 4' x 8' (four feet by eight feet) at a lumber yard. Lumber yards will cut these into smaller pieces and in fact often have them cut and in stock. Call them before you go. Be sure to get a grade of plywood that is perfectly smooth on at least one side. The softer the wood the better.
While you are out shopping, borrow or buy a carpenter's square.
A carpenter's square is shaped like an "L". It has a rule of 24 inches down one side and 18" on the other leg.
You will also need a carpenter's pencil and a heavy-duty staple machine with a box of 1/4" staples.
This is not an ordinary pencil or staple machine. The staple machine must drive the staples into wood. The pencil is made to mark on wood. You will find these items at the lumber yard or hardware store. You will need a sharp knife to put a point on the pencil.
Find one of the edges on the plywood that was cut by the mill that made the plywood. It will be perfectly straight and probably smoother than the lumber yard cuts. From this accurately cut edge, measure out and mark a line as shown in A.
Then, using the carpenter's square, mark out a line as in B. Next, complete the rectangle allowing a generous margin all around as in C. Now, you can use the square and lay out any size rectangle using the lines you have drawn on the plywood such as the darker area in D. Note: Some expert blockers use masking tape to mark the lines instead of the pencil. This is an equally good method.
This same board can serve for many blockings. Just draw in a new box for each size as you need it. A board like this could be a club or group project.
Now you are ready to remove the dampened needlepoint canvas from the plastic bag and lay it face down (in most cases) on the board.
Use this method for stretching and fitting along the lines you have drawn: Starting at the upper right corner, position it carefully and staple it in place securely. The staple machine must be held firmly and squarely against the work. You may need to practice with the staple machine in an unused area of your board.
Now go to the lower right corner and do the same. Staple it in place.
Go to the lower left corner. Staple it in place.
Go to the upper left corner. Staple it in place.
All corners should be now be fastened securely in place.
Now, straighten the right edge and staple. Next the lower edge. Then the left edge. Finally, the top edge.
If the needlepoint canvas is properly dampened and prepared, it should be just that easy to get it stretched squarely along your lines.
Be careful to staple as far out in the non-worked area of your canvas as possible as the staples may cut some of the fibers of the canvas.
After stapling, put the board in a warm, dry place. Leave it alone for twenty-four hours or until you are satisfied that it is completely dry. Then, remove the staples carefully. A sharpened blade-type screwdriver is the best tool for this. You should have a perfect job.
Can you use nails or tacks to fasten the canvas to the board? Yes, you can use anything you can work with easily. Just remember, you must be able to remove anything you pound into the board!
Do the fasteners have to be rust-proof? No, they are in contact with the canvas for only a short period, then are discarded.
Should the board be painted before using? That is up to you. It couldn't hurt anything.
Can I use other marking pencils and pens on the board? Only at your own risk. We use only the pencil. To prevent any graphite from rubbing off onto your needlepoint, you can spray your markings with a light coat of clear Krylon or other clear quick-drying paint.
I have read that some people have their board covered with gingham and use the squares in the cloth to align their edges. Will that work? Yes, this method has been used for many, many years. The key to using gingham successfully is getting it straight and fastened to the board. Not as easy as it sounds.
Are there any real pitfalls? Maybe. Many pieces have been ruined by soaking in water, washing with various soaps, and dry cleaning. Even the light dampening that we use can cause some marking pen marks to bleed and ruin your work. Many marking pens that are supposed to be permanent are not!
source: www.needlepointfun.com
Sunday, September 21, 2008
Saturday, September 20, 2008
Free Cross Stitch Pattern for Your Table
Below is cross stitc you can make to decorate your table:
email me : J.Julise@gmail.com to request the pattern
email me : J.Julise@gmail.com to request the pattern
Friday, September 19, 2008
The Art or Craft of Cross Stitch
The art or craft of cross stitch is one of the most popular hobbies in the world. Easy to learn and do, 'cross stitch' is simply embroidery stitched with lots of little 'X' stitches to create a lovely design. This fun craft is sometimes referred to as 'counted cross-stitch' because the pattern and fabric require the crafter to count the number spaces to know where to place the stitches.
Most often, cross stitch patterns are done using a woven fabric called Aida cloth. Some advanced stitchers create designs on other types of fabrics using a special backing to help keep the stitching uniform. The kind of fabric you use depends on your skill level and the type of design you're creating. I've cross stitched designs on my children's clothing, bedding and other items for my home and as gifts.
Skilled cross stitch crafters create beautiful projects by stitching on plastic and various different papers as well. Gift cards and scrapbook designs may be made by stitching on paper of varying thickness and fiber.
Of course you can't cross stitch without the proper thread. The threads used in counted cross stitch range from basic cotton, to wool or silk threads. Usually very colorful, embroidery floss as it's called, comes in all kinds of colors and textures for you to play with.
If you're just beginning to consider learning to cross stitch, your best bet is to learn about the craft itself before you start buying supplies. Your local craft store, bookstore, or library will most likely have several books available that will teach you and provide easy patterns to start with.
Once you know what's expected of you in the craft of cross stitching, you'll want to find some easy projects to begin with that will allow you to learn as you go. You'll want to start with a project that requires only a few colors of thread and a larger weave Aida cloth. By doing so, you'll prevent a lot of unnecessary learner's frustration.
When you sit down to start your first cross stitch project, you'll want to have all of your materials available and easy to get to. Start out by reading through the project instructions. You'll want to look over your pattern and make sure that you understand all of the jargon and markings that you may find on the pattern. There will be a color key that you'll need to understand so that you use the correct thread color. Make sure to have a pencil handy to make notes or your own marks on the pattern for later reference.
Cross stitching requires you to use a six strand of floss or thread and separate it into individual threads. Your pattern will tell you how many threads you'll use at a time. Most often, the larger the weave of your fabric, the more strands of embroidery floss you'll need at a time. Don't rewind your floss and by all means don't let it get tangled or bunched up. Your end project will look flat and even if you take care of your floss.
One key factor in learning to cross stitch is remembering not to knot your thread. Knotting threads in a cross stitch project will make your end result look lumpy and uneven; not a good thing. Just pull your thread through your Aida cloth and make sure to leave a length of thread on the end in the back. You can keep the bit of tail from going completely through the fabric by holding onto it on the back of your fabric as you make your first couple of stitches; they will overlap and hold the thread in place. You may have to practice this easy technique a few times, but you'll get the hang of it soon enough.
Another handy cross stitching tip is when you're ready to change thread colors, just simply pull your needle through the stitches on the back of your fabric to hold your thread before you snip it off with scissors. Make sure to leave a little bit of thread so that it does not come loose and unstitched. Change your thread color and start on the next area of your project as you did before. And during the stitching process, remember to drop your needle every few stitches, meaning, just hold your project in one hand and let the attached needle and thread dangle from the fabric so that the thread unwinds and your next few stitches will be flat.
source: EzineArticles.com by Sherry Frewerd
Most often, cross stitch patterns are done using a woven fabric called Aida cloth. Some advanced stitchers create designs on other types of fabrics using a special backing to help keep the stitching uniform. The kind of fabric you use depends on your skill level and the type of design you're creating. I've cross stitched designs on my children's clothing, bedding and other items for my home and as gifts.
Skilled cross stitch crafters create beautiful projects by stitching on plastic and various different papers as well. Gift cards and scrapbook designs may be made by stitching on paper of varying thickness and fiber.
Of course you can't cross stitch without the proper thread. The threads used in counted cross stitch range from basic cotton, to wool or silk threads. Usually very colorful, embroidery floss as it's called, comes in all kinds of colors and textures for you to play with.
If you're just beginning to consider learning to cross stitch, your best bet is to learn about the craft itself before you start buying supplies. Your local craft store, bookstore, or library will most likely have several books available that will teach you and provide easy patterns to start with.
Once you know what's expected of you in the craft of cross stitching, you'll want to find some easy projects to begin with that will allow you to learn as you go. You'll want to start with a project that requires only a few colors of thread and a larger weave Aida cloth. By doing so, you'll prevent a lot of unnecessary learner's frustration.
When you sit down to start your first cross stitch project, you'll want to have all of your materials available and easy to get to. Start out by reading through the project instructions. You'll want to look over your pattern and make sure that you understand all of the jargon and markings that you may find on the pattern. There will be a color key that you'll need to understand so that you use the correct thread color. Make sure to have a pencil handy to make notes or your own marks on the pattern for later reference.
Cross stitching requires you to use a six strand of floss or thread and separate it into individual threads. Your pattern will tell you how many threads you'll use at a time. Most often, the larger the weave of your fabric, the more strands of embroidery floss you'll need at a time. Don't rewind your floss and by all means don't let it get tangled or bunched up. Your end project will look flat and even if you take care of your floss.
One key factor in learning to cross stitch is remembering not to knot your thread. Knotting threads in a cross stitch project will make your end result look lumpy and uneven; not a good thing. Just pull your thread through your Aida cloth and make sure to leave a length of thread on the end in the back. You can keep the bit of tail from going completely through the fabric by holding onto it on the back of your fabric as you make your first couple of stitches; they will overlap and hold the thread in place. You may have to practice this easy technique a few times, but you'll get the hang of it soon enough.
Another handy cross stitching tip is when you're ready to change thread colors, just simply pull your needle through the stitches on the back of your fabric to hold your thread before you snip it off with scissors. Make sure to leave a little bit of thread so that it does not come loose and unstitched. Change your thread color and start on the next area of your project as you did before. And during the stitching process, remember to drop your needle every few stitches, meaning, just hold your project in one hand and let the attached needle and thread dangle from the fabric so that the thread unwinds and your next few stitches will be flat.
source: EzineArticles.com by Sherry Frewerd
Thursday, September 18, 2008
Celtic Cross Stitch
Celtic Cross Stitch is a simple yet elegant way of doing embroidery. This type of embroidery art is very old and is one of the most common and the most appreciated form of the cross stitch.
The celtic cross stitch embroideries are predominantly a part of heritage in Irish, Scotts and Minx. The embroidery patterns from this art form are excessively used in our day to day routines from cushion covers to tapestries, from tea cozies to spectacles' covers and from clothes to wall hangings.
They also have the attributes of being rich in deep in colors and intricate designs, all which make them extraordinary eye catching and unique.
There are many celtic cross stitch patterns and designs which are typically embellished with patterns such as geometric, spirals, interlacing patterns, knot works, zoomorphic patterns and many more.
If you are starting out in this cross stitch, I would recommend you to try out their celtic knot works as they are particularly worth trying for. As these patterns can be from simple to very intricate ones, you can actually make a whole range of things for your own especially for your home decoration purposes.
So if Celtic art has ever inspired you either in form of clip arts or any other Celtic patterns, I would also recommend you to make a cross stitch of the same pattern on your favorite piece of clothing, your bag or even a wall hanging. You can purchase a kit or get a pattern to make or you can even transform your favorite pattern into cross stitch pattern by pattern generating CDs or aids.
There are few basic celtic cross stitch designs and patterns for you to start things off. Below is the list of patterns to get you familiar with.
Simple x-shaped stitch
- A cross stitch is very easy to make. Pass the needle with thread from one hole to the other diagonal hole at the corner of the square. Repeat with other two holes.
Half Stitch Pattern
- There are actually two half stitches that overlap each other to make one cross stitch.
Quarter Stitch Pattern
- Four of these stitches conjoin to make one cross stitch. But generally it is used alone as the length varies depending upon the celtic cross stitch fabric
Three Quarter Stitch Pattern
- A three quarter stitch is made with one half stitch and one quarter stitch. A three quarter stitch is commonly used to add details in the cross stitch pattern
Back Stitch Pattern.
- Back stitch is generally used to make boundaries around the patterns and or to write alphabets in the patterns. This is a straight line made in the centre of the square bisecting it into two equal halves
source: www.mycelticcrossstitch.com
The celtic cross stitch embroideries are predominantly a part of heritage in Irish, Scotts and Minx. The embroidery patterns from this art form are excessively used in our day to day routines from cushion covers to tapestries, from tea cozies to spectacles' covers and from clothes to wall hangings.
They also have the attributes of being rich in deep in colors and intricate designs, all which make them extraordinary eye catching and unique.
There are many celtic cross stitch patterns and designs which are typically embellished with patterns such as geometric, spirals, interlacing patterns, knot works, zoomorphic patterns and many more.
If you are starting out in this cross stitch, I would recommend you to try out their celtic knot works as they are particularly worth trying for. As these patterns can be from simple to very intricate ones, you can actually make a whole range of things for your own especially for your home decoration purposes.
So if Celtic art has ever inspired you either in form of clip arts or any other Celtic patterns, I would also recommend you to make a cross stitch of the same pattern on your favorite piece of clothing, your bag or even a wall hanging. You can purchase a kit or get a pattern to make or you can even transform your favorite pattern into cross stitch pattern by pattern generating CDs or aids.
There are few basic celtic cross stitch designs and patterns for you to start things off. Below is the list of patterns to get you familiar with.
Simple x-shaped stitch
- A cross stitch is very easy to make. Pass the needle with thread from one hole to the other diagonal hole at the corner of the square. Repeat with other two holes.
Half Stitch Pattern
- There are actually two half stitches that overlap each other to make one cross stitch.
Quarter Stitch Pattern
- Four of these stitches conjoin to make one cross stitch. But generally it is used alone as the length varies depending upon the celtic cross stitch fabric
Three Quarter Stitch Pattern
- A three quarter stitch is made with one half stitch and one quarter stitch. A three quarter stitch is commonly used to add details in the cross stitch pattern
Back Stitch Pattern.
- Back stitch is generally used to make boundaries around the patterns and or to write alphabets in the patterns. This is a straight line made in the centre of the square bisecting it into two equal halves
source: www.mycelticcrossstitch.com
Wednesday, September 17, 2008
Tips On Choosing And Using Cross Fabrics
1. AIDA:
Aida is the fabric that suits cross stitch embroideries the most. This fabric is 100% cotton. For starters this represents the right opportunity for those who are trying their hand at the art for the first time and also those whose eyesight is weak. Aida has pores that are larger in size thus giving easy recognition pattern.
Aida block patterns are there in 8, and all the way to 18 blocks per 2.5cm (1inch). You can easily identify the number of pores by seeing the number of framework count. A simple model of 14 count fabrics means there exists 14 pores at a distance of every 2.5cms square. Needless to say that colors are a plenty and mixing colors by dying them is possible too. You can view more on this type of celtic cross stitch chart here
2. LINEN:
As appreciated as Aida. Linen has many more varieties than Aida though. Since it has more pores per count compared to Aida therefore it posses a difficult proposition for starters. Linen material normally is laced in twenty four to thirty six pore count, which makes the pores almost 2 times of that found in Aida fabric. Linen by character has abnormality. But those who can master this art can give it a craftsmanship or rather Midas like touch. With linen too color are bountiful.You can view more of linen stich fabric here.
. Jobelan: Jobelan is among the various varieties of linen. The fabric of Jobelan is woven intricately with mixtures of modal and cotton. Because it is weaved in a single pattern line and not blocks it handling and caring is much easier than perceived.
. Zweigart Linda: Another form of linen even weave is Zweigart Linda. This fabric is an amalgamation of Cotton with Synthetic fibers. The mixtures of synthetic fibers present the fabric a longer life. It is widely used in the making bed linens, baby clothes and baby beeps and napkins too.
. Belfast and Cashel linens: Such linens are of exclusive make, they are soft to feel, the flow and shine is rich thus making this fabric ideally suited to be the material you would like to dress yourself up in on a date to special occasion!
3. Stitching Paper:
If you like not to get started with the above mentioned fabrics then then option of a stitching paper shall be ideal. Stitching paper or trace sheets are meant of kids to be used in school projects. These trace sheets are punched or punctured.
Such sheets can be used for projects easily as they can be folded, twisted and turned, while also used for making of file covers, making book marks and then pasted on craft sheets and used extensively on other accessories. Paper embroideries using cross stitch patterns were the specialties of Victorians.
source: fluttercrafts.typepad.com
Aida is the fabric that suits cross stitch embroideries the most. This fabric is 100% cotton. For starters this represents the right opportunity for those who are trying their hand at the art for the first time and also those whose eyesight is weak. Aida has pores that are larger in size thus giving easy recognition pattern.
Aida block patterns are there in 8, and all the way to 18 blocks per 2.5cm (1inch). You can easily identify the number of pores by seeing the number of framework count. A simple model of 14 count fabrics means there exists 14 pores at a distance of every 2.5cms square. Needless to say that colors are a plenty and mixing colors by dying them is possible too. You can view more on this type of celtic cross stitch chart here
2. LINEN:
As appreciated as Aida. Linen has many more varieties than Aida though. Since it has more pores per count compared to Aida therefore it posses a difficult proposition for starters. Linen material normally is laced in twenty four to thirty six pore count, which makes the pores almost 2 times of that found in Aida fabric. Linen by character has abnormality. But those who can master this art can give it a craftsmanship or rather Midas like touch. With linen too color are bountiful.You can view more of linen stich fabric here.
. Jobelan: Jobelan is among the various varieties of linen. The fabric of Jobelan is woven intricately with mixtures of modal and cotton. Because it is weaved in a single pattern line and not blocks it handling and caring is much easier than perceived.
. Zweigart Linda: Another form of linen even weave is Zweigart Linda. This fabric is an amalgamation of Cotton with Synthetic fibers. The mixtures of synthetic fibers present the fabric a longer life. It is widely used in the making bed linens, baby clothes and baby beeps and napkins too.
. Belfast and Cashel linens: Such linens are of exclusive make, they are soft to feel, the flow and shine is rich thus making this fabric ideally suited to be the material you would like to dress yourself up in on a date to special occasion!
3. Stitching Paper:
If you like not to get started with the above mentioned fabrics then then option of a stitching paper shall be ideal. Stitching paper or trace sheets are meant of kids to be used in school projects. These trace sheets are punched or punctured.
Such sheets can be used for projects easily as they can be folded, twisted and turned, while also used for making of file covers, making book marks and then pasted on craft sheets and used extensively on other accessories. Paper embroideries using cross stitch patterns were the specialties of Victorians.
source: fluttercrafts.typepad.com
Tuesday, September 16, 2008
Article of Celtic Cross Stitch Art
Art patterns coming from Celts are well known for being vague. Yet the intricate outlines are revered by one and all. Celtic or Celts were more of being a tribe than a complete nation. The rulers for the tribe would be a Queen, a King or even a Chieftain. The roots of their tribe were dispersed all over the European continent and went as far as some fraction of Asia.
History has it that for centuries together Celts ruled over Turkey, Spain, Germany and Britain. The simple reason as to why even today the celtic cross stitch is so famous and prominent is because the people of Celt were wandering souls thus spreading their art form to all places they went. You shall be amazed to know that the art is no less than 25 centuries old. A few patterns are dated around 500 B.C. You can view the basic introductions to this cross stitch art.
Celts were considerably documented for their innovation and also décor of all possessions. If compared with those times most of their possessions were embedded with highly vague celtic patterns. One could observe their unusual patterns over all their belongings like clothes, shields, utensils, vessels, and swords and even decorated their walls with similar patterns.
Their passion for their art was reflected in the their jewellery and all the way to having similar patterns as tattoos on the body areas. Not much has changed with time. They still have belief in their mystic nature, and in the old days of the civilization they had many myths and stories that depicted legendary creatures. A close look at their ornaments will revel that such creatures were an indispensable element of their life.
Today Celtic art has its limitation; the design pattern is now mostly seen on craftwork done on armory products like Swords and shields. Nothing to be disappointed about embroideries and tattoos are keeping the traditional craft alive. With time there have been some encouraging additions to this art for instance clip arts, illustrations and stamps.
Most Irish, English and Spanish or German homes are decorated with some or the other design typically showcasing celtic cross stitch. One can find such beautiful patterns on the bed sheets, pillow covers and wall frame. Its not that after centuries have passed this art is facing extinction, there many still have a taste for all things classic and ethnic in nature and style like Celtic cross stitch embroidery. What impresses most it that this form of art is relevant and appealing today as well?
Cross stitch embroidery is one such beautiful art that allows us to explore with several ideas. The patterns are so easy to learn and then follow that after a while it's a free wheeling process of creating art out of nothing. There is so much with simple lines turning into a magnificent piece of rich colored craftsmanship.
These patterns are vivacious and audacious at the same time. The patterns are easily available and also with available for the beginners to the experts. They are just not easy to make but also can be found in patterns and designs suiting your needs, there are many like those for birthday gifts to special occasions. Knots as well as spirals patterns are there in Celtic cross stitch patterns to cater to your needs.
So what are you waiting for, go out and buy one. You could gift one of these beautiful things as a gift to friends and close ones. Why just buy for gifting away and why not make one that you could always admire for being the special art piece in the living room.
source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jennifer_Walter
History has it that for centuries together Celts ruled over Turkey, Spain, Germany and Britain. The simple reason as to why even today the celtic cross stitch is so famous and prominent is because the people of Celt were wandering souls thus spreading their art form to all places they went. You shall be amazed to know that the art is no less than 25 centuries old. A few patterns are dated around 500 B.C. You can view the basic introductions to this cross stitch art.
Celts were considerably documented for their innovation and also décor of all possessions. If compared with those times most of their possessions were embedded with highly vague celtic patterns. One could observe their unusual patterns over all their belongings like clothes, shields, utensils, vessels, and swords and even decorated their walls with similar patterns.
Their passion for their art was reflected in the their jewellery and all the way to having similar patterns as tattoos on the body areas. Not much has changed with time. They still have belief in their mystic nature, and in the old days of the civilization they had many myths and stories that depicted legendary creatures. A close look at their ornaments will revel that such creatures were an indispensable element of their life.
Today Celtic art has its limitation; the design pattern is now mostly seen on craftwork done on armory products like Swords and shields. Nothing to be disappointed about embroideries and tattoos are keeping the traditional craft alive. With time there have been some encouraging additions to this art for instance clip arts, illustrations and stamps.
Most Irish, English and Spanish or German homes are decorated with some or the other design typically showcasing celtic cross stitch. One can find such beautiful patterns on the bed sheets, pillow covers and wall frame. Its not that after centuries have passed this art is facing extinction, there many still have a taste for all things classic and ethnic in nature and style like Celtic cross stitch embroidery. What impresses most it that this form of art is relevant and appealing today as well?
Cross stitch embroidery is one such beautiful art that allows us to explore with several ideas. The patterns are so easy to learn and then follow that after a while it's a free wheeling process of creating art out of nothing. There is so much with simple lines turning into a magnificent piece of rich colored craftsmanship.
These patterns are vivacious and audacious at the same time. The patterns are easily available and also with available for the beginners to the experts. They are just not easy to make but also can be found in patterns and designs suiting your needs, there are many like those for birthday gifts to special occasions. Knots as well as spirals patterns are there in Celtic cross stitch patterns to cater to your needs.
So what are you waiting for, go out and buy one. You could gift one of these beautiful things as a gift to friends and close ones. Why just buy for gifting away and why not make one that you could always admire for being the special art piece in the living room.
source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jennifer_Walter
Monday, September 15, 2008
Basic Lesson How to Make Cross Stitch
CROSS STITCH - INDIVIDUAL
An individual cross stitch is worked in the same sequence as a
row of cross stitch. Bring the needle out at 1 and insert at 2,
completing half the cross stitch. Then, bring it out at 3, directly
below 2 and insert the needle at 4, above 1. Your individual cross
stitch is complete.
CROSS STITCH - ROW
Bring the needle out at 1, insert at 2 and out again at 3. Continue
this process until the desired number of stitches is completed for
that row.
At the end of the row, work back, bringing the needle out at 4,
inserting at 5 and out again at 6.
FINISHING OFF
To finish off your thread run the needle through the back of four
or five stitches and trim the thread close to the cloth.
Should work become soiled, handwash in cold water with mild
soap. Rinse well and dry flat in shade. Do not wring. Press from
the back with a warm iron.
source: www.stitchcraft.info
Sunday, September 14, 2008
How to Handle Thread Wear?
Ideally we want to avoid this happening when we stitch. The last stitch should look like the first one. However this is not always easy to accomplish. What can we do? First, cut shorter pieces. Experience will guide you but a good rule is the length from the hand to the elbow. Some stitches use more thread so you may have to adjust this length or else you will be forever stopping and starting. Basket weave goes in and out of every hole, satin stitch does not. Therefore the length of your thread for the satin stitch can be longer. Fuzzy threads and shiny threads should never be used long because they wear very easily. Thicker threads should also be cut shorter. Most stitchers hate to start and end their threads finding it time-consuming, but with shorter threads you are taking less time pulling the thread through the canvas or fabric so it will all balance out in the end.
source: www.cross-stitch.ca
source: www.cross-stitch.ca
Saturday, September 13, 2008
9 How to Improve Your Stitching Experiences
Follow these "rules" and you will avoid mistakes and heart break.
1: Don’t put your dirty paws on the stitchery! Keep your hands clean.
First and foremost, always make sure to have clean hands when stitching. Oils from your skin transfer easily to Cross Stitch fabric and over time create stains that are not easy to remove. The best way to avoid this is to avoid the problem in the first place. (Train your family not to touch your projects unless they have freshly cleaned hands. Better yet - tell them to keep of the fabric and floss!)
2: Don’t stray from the path – Stitches should face the same direction.
Cross Stitch is a fairly flexible embroidery style. There are not a lot of hard and fast rules. It is imperative, however, that all stitches face the same direction, unless otherwise specified in the instructions for the project. Choose a direction for the first leg of the cross stitch and stick with it. I personally am a "righty" - all my bottom half stitches point to the right. It does not matter which direction you choose, just maintain consistency.
3: Stitches are like porridge – They should be just right.
Consistent tension is crucial for creating proper stitches. They should be flat against the fabric, not too tight, not too loose. Experiment on scrap fabric until you learn how tightly you need to pull the floss to create a perfect stitch.
4: Let it all hang out – avoid knots by dangling floss.
As you stitch cross stitches, the floss tends to twist and eventually knot. The simple solution is to frequently dangle the needle and floss allowing it to untwist. Once you get into a routine, you will do this without thinking. Until you do, consciously take this step every few stitches.
5: Let the light shine – on your pattern, floss, and projects.
Good lighting makes or breaks a Cross Stitch project. Proper lighting prevents floss color confusion. Adequate lighting prevents improper stitch placement. It also makes the chart much easier to read. Light sources do not have to be expensive. I use a bright florescent bulb in a regular floor lamp with an adjustable arm. I also carry an inexpensive book light with me to attach to my hoop if I want to stitch in a waiting room or other place where the lighting is not as bright.
6: Sit up straight – Find the proper seating and stick with it.
Set up your main stitching station so that you are comfortable and avoid injury. If you don't have the luxury of a specific place to stitch, chose your perch carefully. Don't sit in an awkward position. Your seating should allow you to work freely, with your arms in a natural stitching position.
7: Take a break – Don’t strain your hands or eyes.
It is tempting to stitch for hours at a time, especially when you can make the time and when you get in the "stitching zone". It is important to avoid this temptation, especially when you are a new stitcher. Taking breaks helps to prevent repetitive stress injuries and eyestrain. Stop stitching, get up, stretch, rest your eyes and hands for a moment, and then start again if you like. If you have trouble with "getting in the the zone" and forgetting to take breaks, use a timer. Or use the TV schedule or musical selections. When the buzzer, show or CD stops, it is time for a break!
8: Slow Down! – Take your time to get it right.
Some stitchers are amazingly fast. I am not always one of them. I have to take my time to avoid mistakes. My progress may be excruciatingly slow, but I would rather take my time and get it right the first time than spend hours removing misplaced stitches. It is very important to work slowly when you try new techniques or stitching fibers such as metallic flosses. Cross Stitch is not a race!
9: Don’t skimp on supplies! Buy the best you can afford.
When choosing supplies, purchase the best you can afford. Everything you choose does not have to be the most expensive, high-end model, but there are some supplies you should not skimp on. Floss and fabrics should be good quality, especially as you start to work on larger projects. Good scissors for cutting fabric and flosses are a must. Cross Stitch does not have to be an expensive hobby, but if you are investing your time in creating an heirloom sampler, you will want to be sure that the supplies are of a quality that corresponds to your effort.
source: crossstitch.about.com
1: Don’t put your dirty paws on the stitchery! Keep your hands clean.
First and foremost, always make sure to have clean hands when stitching. Oils from your skin transfer easily to Cross Stitch fabric and over time create stains that are not easy to remove. The best way to avoid this is to avoid the problem in the first place. (Train your family not to touch your projects unless they have freshly cleaned hands. Better yet - tell them to keep of the fabric and floss!)
2: Don’t stray from the path – Stitches should face the same direction.
Cross Stitch is a fairly flexible embroidery style. There are not a lot of hard and fast rules. It is imperative, however, that all stitches face the same direction, unless otherwise specified in the instructions for the project. Choose a direction for the first leg of the cross stitch and stick with it. I personally am a "righty" - all my bottom half stitches point to the right. It does not matter which direction you choose, just maintain consistency.
3: Stitches are like porridge – They should be just right.
Consistent tension is crucial for creating proper stitches. They should be flat against the fabric, not too tight, not too loose. Experiment on scrap fabric until you learn how tightly you need to pull the floss to create a perfect stitch.
4: Let it all hang out – avoid knots by dangling floss.
As you stitch cross stitches, the floss tends to twist and eventually knot. The simple solution is to frequently dangle the needle and floss allowing it to untwist. Once you get into a routine, you will do this without thinking. Until you do, consciously take this step every few stitches.
5: Let the light shine – on your pattern, floss, and projects.
Good lighting makes or breaks a Cross Stitch project. Proper lighting prevents floss color confusion. Adequate lighting prevents improper stitch placement. It also makes the chart much easier to read. Light sources do not have to be expensive. I use a bright florescent bulb in a regular floor lamp with an adjustable arm. I also carry an inexpensive book light with me to attach to my hoop if I want to stitch in a waiting room or other place where the lighting is not as bright.
6: Sit up straight – Find the proper seating and stick with it.
Set up your main stitching station so that you are comfortable and avoid injury. If you don't have the luxury of a specific place to stitch, chose your perch carefully. Don't sit in an awkward position. Your seating should allow you to work freely, with your arms in a natural stitching position.
7: Take a break – Don’t strain your hands or eyes.
It is tempting to stitch for hours at a time, especially when you can make the time and when you get in the "stitching zone". It is important to avoid this temptation, especially when you are a new stitcher. Taking breaks helps to prevent repetitive stress injuries and eyestrain. Stop stitching, get up, stretch, rest your eyes and hands for a moment, and then start again if you like. If you have trouble with "getting in the the zone" and forgetting to take breaks, use a timer. Or use the TV schedule or musical selections. When the buzzer, show or CD stops, it is time for a break!
8: Slow Down! – Take your time to get it right.
Some stitchers are amazingly fast. I am not always one of them. I have to take my time to avoid mistakes. My progress may be excruciatingly slow, but I would rather take my time and get it right the first time than spend hours removing misplaced stitches. It is very important to work slowly when you try new techniques or stitching fibers such as metallic flosses. Cross Stitch is not a race!
9: Don’t skimp on supplies! Buy the best you can afford.
When choosing supplies, purchase the best you can afford. Everything you choose does not have to be the most expensive, high-end model, but there are some supplies you should not skimp on. Floss and fabrics should be good quality, especially as you start to work on larger projects. Good scissors for cutting fabric and flosses are a must. Cross Stitch does not have to be an expensive hobby, but if you are investing your time in creating an heirloom sampler, you will want to be sure that the supplies are of a quality that corresponds to your effort.
source: crossstitch.about.com
Friday, September 12, 2008
Addicted to Cross Stitch??? Read This...
Here are some thoughts to mull over:
Why do we stitch?
What is the philosophy of stitching?
The answer is very simple. We stitch for the sheer pleasure it brings. It is meant to be fun, relaxing, and satisfying. The bottom line is to enjoy yourself while separating yourself from the problems and routine of daily life. Often it becomes an obsession, but it is a productive one, giving you something beautiful to show and share for the time invested.
Stitchers love to start new projects. As a result many of us have a drawer or cupboard full of what we affectionately call UFO's, unfinished projects. Should we feel guilty about this when we begin something new? NO! Remember, stitching means pleasure. Sometimes after working on a piece for a while we discover that we really don't like it and therefore we don't enjoy stitching it either.
Don't feel guilty about abandoning this piece. Our spare time is too precious. Let's just enjoy it! Like any learned skill, practice makes better. The more you do, the better you get. Some of us strive to stitch flawlessly, but soon come to realize that we may never get to that point. This doesn't mean that we shouldn't keep trying. Here are some stitching tips from an experienced canvas stitcher who has been stitching for 20 years and is still learning. Jay from Rainbow Gallery (a major thread manufacturing company) offers these suggestions to you. Many will apply to Cross-stitchers as well.
1: Starting and ending threads:
If you are not careful when you start and end your threads they may pop out and be visible on the front of your work. If this were to happen after it was framed, you would not be very happy. To avoid this secure your threads on the back of your canvas with diligence. A waste or away knot is best. Tension is important when beginning and ending your thread. Be careful that you do not end with a tug that distorts the canvas, or too loosely, leaving a floppy thread.
2: Tension:
This is not something you can really learn. Proper tension comes with time and experience. We each develop our own rhythm of stitching, a way of working that is comfortable and produces good results. Stitching that is too tight will pull and distort the canvas and if too loose will show as lumps on the front. Mood can affect our tension. When we are angry, frustrated, or upset we tend to pull harder. If we are feeling carefree our stitches can be loose.
3: Grain or Nap:
Most fibers have a grain or nap. This refers to the direction that the little fuzzies stick out. The best way to determine the direction of the nap is to run the thread through your fingers both ways. If one direction feels smoother, that is the way you want to stitch it through your canvas or fabric. Stitching with the grain means a smoother, less fuzzy, finished product. It also means you should not double wool (or threads) through the needle. With some of the threads used today it may not matter too much about the grain, but with Perle Cotons and fuzzy yarns it does.
4: Furry and fuzzy yarns:
Using these special yarns will give extra dimension and texture to your work, making it so realistic. Here's how to get the most from these threads. To prevent wear and tear on the fibers you should stitch straight up and down. Once the fuzzy area has been stitched you can use a nap brush to fluff up the fibers, which do get caught up within the stitching. After it has been brushed you can also trim it if necessary. Stitch the fiber to be brushed first, brush it and then stitch the surrounding areas. If you try to brush up the yarn beside a stitched area it is almost impossible not to brush those stitches as well. If you have a choice of which stitches to use, choose ones that leave more thread on the front of the canvas as more fur will be seen. Longer stitches are better than Basketweave which pulls too much of the fuzzy to the back, for example.
source: www.cross-stitch.ca
Why do we stitch?
What is the philosophy of stitching?
The answer is very simple. We stitch for the sheer pleasure it brings. It is meant to be fun, relaxing, and satisfying. The bottom line is to enjoy yourself while separating yourself from the problems and routine of daily life. Often it becomes an obsession, but it is a productive one, giving you something beautiful to show and share for the time invested.
Stitchers love to start new projects. As a result many of us have a drawer or cupboard full of what we affectionately call UFO's, unfinished projects. Should we feel guilty about this when we begin something new? NO! Remember, stitching means pleasure. Sometimes after working on a piece for a while we discover that we really don't like it and therefore we don't enjoy stitching it either.
Don't feel guilty about abandoning this piece. Our spare time is too precious. Let's just enjoy it! Like any learned skill, practice makes better. The more you do, the better you get. Some of us strive to stitch flawlessly, but soon come to realize that we may never get to that point. This doesn't mean that we shouldn't keep trying. Here are some stitching tips from an experienced canvas stitcher who has been stitching for 20 years and is still learning. Jay from Rainbow Gallery (a major thread manufacturing company) offers these suggestions to you. Many will apply to Cross-stitchers as well.
1: Starting and ending threads:
If you are not careful when you start and end your threads they may pop out and be visible on the front of your work. If this were to happen after it was framed, you would not be very happy. To avoid this secure your threads on the back of your canvas with diligence. A waste or away knot is best. Tension is important when beginning and ending your thread. Be careful that you do not end with a tug that distorts the canvas, or too loosely, leaving a floppy thread.
2: Tension:
This is not something you can really learn. Proper tension comes with time and experience. We each develop our own rhythm of stitching, a way of working that is comfortable and produces good results. Stitching that is too tight will pull and distort the canvas and if too loose will show as lumps on the front. Mood can affect our tension. When we are angry, frustrated, or upset we tend to pull harder. If we are feeling carefree our stitches can be loose.
3: Grain or Nap:
Most fibers have a grain or nap. This refers to the direction that the little fuzzies stick out. The best way to determine the direction of the nap is to run the thread through your fingers both ways. If one direction feels smoother, that is the way you want to stitch it through your canvas or fabric. Stitching with the grain means a smoother, less fuzzy, finished product. It also means you should not double wool (or threads) through the needle. With some of the threads used today it may not matter too much about the grain, but with Perle Cotons and fuzzy yarns it does.
4: Furry and fuzzy yarns:
Using these special yarns will give extra dimension and texture to your work, making it so realistic. Here's how to get the most from these threads. To prevent wear and tear on the fibers you should stitch straight up and down. Once the fuzzy area has been stitched you can use a nap brush to fluff up the fibers, which do get caught up within the stitching. After it has been brushed you can also trim it if necessary. Stitch the fiber to be brushed first, brush it and then stitch the surrounding areas. If you try to brush up the yarn beside a stitched area it is almost impossible not to brush those stitches as well. If you have a choice of which stitches to use, choose ones that leave more thread on the front of the canvas as more fur will be seen. Longer stitches are better than Basketweave which pulls too much of the fuzzy to the back, for example.
source: www.cross-stitch.ca
Thursday, September 11, 2008
A Very Basic Tips....
GETTING STARTED
Always start stitching from the center of your fabric. To find the center on your fabric, fold the fabric in half twice. The center will be at the intersection of the two folds.
Finding the center of your chart by following the two arrows. One arrow will be in the top center and the other one in the middle left side of your chart. Follow these two arrows. Where they meet is your center stitch.
FABRIC
Put tissue paper in your hoop with your fabric then tear away the center where you are stitching. This will keep oils from getting onto your fabric and help your hands from being moist.
Use different qualities of fabric. Try cheaper fabric for quick designs, saving money so that you can splash out on the best fabric for heirloom projects.
You will want to allow 3 to 4 inches of fabric on each side of the design. This will help you framing your project easily.
THREADS
When stitching with 2 threads use only one strand of floss, put the ends together and thread them through the needle leaving a loop on one end. When you put the needle through on your second stitch, catch it through the loop. This keeps the material from getting bumby.
When ending your thread by running under other stitches, try to match colors. Never run a dark color under light stitched, it might show through to the front.
Back stitch should be added when all other stitching has been completed.
NEEDLES
Many of us we have the bad habit of leaving the needle into the fabric when we end a session. Be aware that this can leave a permanent stain or large hole in your fabric. Always store a needle properly.
GENERAL TIPS
If you have pets or small children do not keep your cross stitch materials in a bag. Keeping your threads, needles and scissors in a box that shuts securely will prevent little fingers and paws from getting into things easily!
If you are working on a larger needlework project, invest in a set of stretcher bars. They keep the fabric from getting warped and it makes it easier to actually do the sewing. They come in several sizes, and are fairly inexpensive.
Using a highlighter in a light color - yellow works very well for marking off stitches or areas of stitching as you complete them. If your lighting make the yellow hard to see at night, you could use another color like green or blue or orange when stitching at night.
source: yiotas-xstitch.com
Always start stitching from the center of your fabric. To find the center on your fabric, fold the fabric in half twice. The center will be at the intersection of the two folds.
Finding the center of your chart by following the two arrows. One arrow will be in the top center and the other one in the middle left side of your chart. Follow these two arrows. Where they meet is your center stitch.
FABRIC
Put tissue paper in your hoop with your fabric then tear away the center where you are stitching. This will keep oils from getting onto your fabric and help your hands from being moist.
Use different qualities of fabric. Try cheaper fabric for quick designs, saving money so that you can splash out on the best fabric for heirloom projects.
You will want to allow 3 to 4 inches of fabric on each side of the design. This will help you framing your project easily.
THREADS
When stitching with 2 threads use only one strand of floss, put the ends together and thread them through the needle leaving a loop on one end. When you put the needle through on your second stitch, catch it through the loop. This keeps the material from getting bumby.
When ending your thread by running under other stitches, try to match colors. Never run a dark color under light stitched, it might show through to the front.
Back stitch should be added when all other stitching has been completed.
NEEDLES
Many of us we have the bad habit of leaving the needle into the fabric when we end a session. Be aware that this can leave a permanent stain or large hole in your fabric. Always store a needle properly.
GENERAL TIPS
If you have pets or small children do not keep your cross stitch materials in a bag. Keeping your threads, needles and scissors in a box that shuts securely will prevent little fingers and paws from getting into things easily!
If you are working on a larger needlework project, invest in a set of stretcher bars. They keep the fabric from getting warped and it makes it easier to actually do the sewing. They come in several sizes, and are fairly inexpensive.
Using a highlighter in a light color - yellow works very well for marking off stitches or areas of stitching as you complete them. If your lighting make the yellow hard to see at night, you could use another color like green or blue or orange when stitching at night.
source: yiotas-xstitch.com
Wednesday, September 10, 2008
How to Deal with Shiny Threads that easily Slips?
Anchor’s Marlitt and DMC’s Rayon Floss are both 100% rayon, which means they are both slippery to handle and use. Here are some tips to make stitching with them easier.
1: Use shorter lengths of thread, no longer than 18".
2: Thread them onto your needle in the same way you would blending filaments or metallics as follows:
a: Pull loop over end of needle.
b: Tighten loop at eye.
c: Gently stroke the knotted yarn to lock it in place.
3: Moistening the strands will also keep them from slipping while stitching.
We encourage you to experiment with different threads, adding variety, both in look and feel, to your stitching. The rich sheen of Marlitt and Rayon Floss will certainly add a touch of elegance to your projects.
source: www.cross-stitch.ca
1: Use shorter lengths of thread, no longer than 18".
2: Thread them onto your needle in the same way you would blending filaments or metallics as follows:
a: Pull loop over end of needle.
b: Tighten loop at eye.
c: Gently stroke the knotted yarn to lock it in place.
3: Moistening the strands will also keep them from slipping while stitching.
We encourage you to experiment with different threads, adding variety, both in look and feel, to your stitching. The rich sheen of Marlitt and Rayon Floss will certainly add a touch of elegance to your projects.
source: www.cross-stitch.ca
How To Wash Cross Stitch
* Use only cold water for the wash and rinse. Tap water is fine unless you have very hard water, then you will want to use distilled water. Make sure the sink and any containers you will use are clean.
* Pre-rinse the piece under cold, running water.
* Place in a soapy cold water and gently wash. Do not scrub. For detergent I recommend Yarn Trees FabriCare, but other products are available. Avoid soaps that have additives such as fragrances, softeners, etc. Use only a small amount of detergent.
* If needed, rinse and wash a second time. DO NOT WRING the water out; this is not necessary and can pull the stitches.
* Rinse three times in cold water.
* As you work, check carefully for any sign of color bleeding, hoop marks or other stains.
* Remove the piece from the final rinse. Let the water drain out of the fabric, but DO NOT WRING.
* Place the cross stitch on a dry bath towel, and roll up the towel (with the cross stitch still on the towel).
* Unroll the towel and repeat on a dry section of the towel (or another towel). Gently pressing on the rolled up towel will remove all the water you need to remove. Repeat as necessary.
* Unroll the towel. Lay the cross stitch face up on a dry section of the towel. If necessary, let the piece air dry until it is just damp but not dripping wet.
* Once again, check for any stains or marks. Once you iron the piece, it will be even more difficult to remove any stains.
* Place the cross stitch face down on a dry bath towel. Use an iron set to a low or medium temperature and lightly press the back of the cross stitch. If you have beads, special threads, etc you want to be extra careful with this step. Keep the iron constantly moving. If you have not used that iron in a while, practice on a scrap piece of cross stitch fabric. Make sure the steam setting is off, and the iron is not spitting steam. For the temperature setting, keep in mind the types of materials you used in the cross stitch, if there is any question, use a lower temperature.
* The cross stitch will still be slightly damp. Lay it face up on the towel and allow to air dry.
source: Yarntree.com
* Pre-rinse the piece under cold, running water.
* Place in a soapy cold water and gently wash. Do not scrub. For detergent I recommend Yarn Trees FabriCare, but other products are available. Avoid soaps that have additives such as fragrances, softeners, etc. Use only a small amount of detergent.
* If needed, rinse and wash a second time. DO NOT WRING the water out; this is not necessary and can pull the stitches.
* Rinse three times in cold water.
* As you work, check carefully for any sign of color bleeding, hoop marks or other stains.
* Remove the piece from the final rinse. Let the water drain out of the fabric, but DO NOT WRING.
* Place the cross stitch on a dry bath towel, and roll up the towel (with the cross stitch still on the towel).
* Unroll the towel and repeat on a dry section of the towel (or another towel). Gently pressing on the rolled up towel will remove all the water you need to remove. Repeat as necessary.
* Unroll the towel. Lay the cross stitch face up on a dry section of the towel. If necessary, let the piece air dry until it is just damp but not dripping wet.
* Once again, check for any stains or marks. Once you iron the piece, it will be even more difficult to remove any stains.
* Place the cross stitch face down on a dry bath towel. Use an iron set to a low or medium temperature and lightly press the back of the cross stitch. If you have beads, special threads, etc you want to be extra careful with this step. Keep the iron constantly moving. If you have not used that iron in a while, practice on a scrap piece of cross stitch fabric. Make sure the steam setting is off, and the iron is not spitting steam. For the temperature setting, keep in mind the types of materials you used in the cross stitch, if there is any question, use a lower temperature.
* The cross stitch will still be slightly damp. Lay it face up on the towel and allow to air dry.
source: Yarntree.com
Sunday, September 7, 2008
Stitch in Jobelan Fabric
What is Jobelan?
Jobelan fabrics are high-quality, easy-care evenweave textile materials that are great to use on cross stitch projects where you want an old-fashioned or elegant appearance. Because of its evenweave construction, Jobelan has an even number of threads running both vertically and horizontally. One advantage to evenweave fabrics is that they are softer than Aida. In fact, Jobelan is smoother and softer than Aida and most linens, and is a pleasure to work with.
The Jobelan textile is made up of a mix of approximately 50% cotton and 50% of a man-made material, such as Rayon or Modal (a wood-pulp derative). It comes in a range of as many as 60 different colors and usually can be found in thread counts of 16, 19/20, 25, 28, and 32 (an example of a hand-dyed 32 count is shown above). Since the thread count refers to the number of threads per inch, a larger thread count means your fabric will be finer in texture. The 25 and 28 counts are very popular and are great to use with most cross stitch projects.
Where Should I use Jobelan?
16-count (16 threads per inch/2.5cm) Jobelan is ideal for stitching chunky cross-stitch cushions, whereas the 19/20 count is great for Hardanger cross-stitch (shown on the left). 28-count is the most popular Jobelan fabric and it makes a terrific substitute for 14-count Aida. You can also source Jobelan fabrics which are a linen/cotton mix and up to 63in (160cm) wide, which, when combined with their excellent washing qualities, makes them ideal for tablecloths.
When stitching on Jobelan, you will want to stitch over two strands in most cases. Unlike Aida, Jobelan has no visible holes, so you need to count the threads. Because you stitch over two strands, in essence the thread count of the material is halved. By this I mean if you are stitching a design on 28-count Jobelan , the end result will be the same size as if you had stitched on 14-count Aida; which we touched on earlier.
You will find that Jobelan, like all evenweaves, makes it easy to stitch fractional cross stitches. Unlike Aida, where you make a fractional stitch by punching through a square, on Jobelan you simply stitch over one thread instead of two. You will find it simple to create fractional stitches (1/4, 1/2, and ¾) on Jobelan fabric.
Practical Tips
When you start stitching your project on Jobelan fabric, you should consider making your first stitch to the left of a vertical thread. This thread can serve as your marker, which will make it easy for you to count threads. Moreover, by having a marker, you will be able to see quickly if you ever make a mistake in counting.
Because the threads are close together in Jobelan fabric, some stitchers find it easier to work in very bright light or to use a magnifying lamp. Once you are used to stitching on this type of fabric, you may find you no longer need a magnifier or an extremely bright light and instead can see the threads clearly.
When it comes to the design, you may want to choose something that lends itself to the elegant nature of Jobelan fabric. Many stitchers find that complex, ornate designs look wonderful on this fabric. In addition, samplers have an authentic, old-world appearance when stitched on Jobelan.
Anything Else?
One other factor you should consider with Jobelan fabric is the size of the needle you plan to use. Since this fabric has a high thread count, you may want to use a smaller needle, such as a #26. The selection of a needle size is one of personal preference, but many stitchers find that with fine thread fabrics, a smaller needle makes it easier to stitch.
Generally, Jobelan fabric washes and irons well. As with all projects, though, you will want to make certain the thread is colorfast before washing a completed project. Many threads, such as silk, can bleed, so determine before washing if your thread is colorfast.
Finally, no matter what color of Jobelan you pick or what design you choose to stitch, you will find that this elegant, versatile fabric can help you create a cross stitch masterpiece you will treasure for years to come.
source: www.patternspatch.com
Jobelan fabrics are high-quality, easy-care evenweave textile materials that are great to use on cross stitch projects where you want an old-fashioned or elegant appearance. Because of its evenweave construction, Jobelan has an even number of threads running both vertically and horizontally. One advantage to evenweave fabrics is that they are softer than Aida. In fact, Jobelan is smoother and softer than Aida and most linens, and is a pleasure to work with.
The Jobelan textile is made up of a mix of approximately 50% cotton and 50% of a man-made material, such as Rayon or Modal (a wood-pulp derative). It comes in a range of as many as 60 different colors and usually can be found in thread counts of 16, 19/20, 25, 28, and 32 (an example of a hand-dyed 32 count is shown above). Since the thread count refers to the number of threads per inch, a larger thread count means your fabric will be finer in texture. The 25 and 28 counts are very popular and are great to use with most cross stitch projects.
Where Should I use Jobelan?
16-count (16 threads per inch/2.5cm) Jobelan is ideal for stitching chunky cross-stitch cushions, whereas the 19/20 count is great for Hardanger cross-stitch (shown on the left). 28-count is the most popular Jobelan fabric and it makes a terrific substitute for 14-count Aida. You can also source Jobelan fabrics which are a linen/cotton mix and up to 63in (160cm) wide, which, when combined with their excellent washing qualities, makes them ideal for tablecloths.
When stitching on Jobelan, you will want to stitch over two strands in most cases. Unlike Aida, Jobelan has no visible holes, so you need to count the threads. Because you stitch over two strands, in essence the thread count of the material is halved. By this I mean if you are stitching a design on 28-count Jobelan , the end result will be the same size as if you had stitched on 14-count Aida; which we touched on earlier.
You will find that Jobelan, like all evenweaves, makes it easy to stitch fractional cross stitches. Unlike Aida, where you make a fractional stitch by punching through a square, on Jobelan you simply stitch over one thread instead of two. You will find it simple to create fractional stitches (1/4, 1/2, and ¾) on Jobelan fabric.
Practical Tips
When you start stitching your project on Jobelan fabric, you should consider making your first stitch to the left of a vertical thread. This thread can serve as your marker, which will make it easy for you to count threads. Moreover, by having a marker, you will be able to see quickly if you ever make a mistake in counting.
Because the threads are close together in Jobelan fabric, some stitchers find it easier to work in very bright light or to use a magnifying lamp. Once you are used to stitching on this type of fabric, you may find you no longer need a magnifier or an extremely bright light and instead can see the threads clearly.
When it comes to the design, you may want to choose something that lends itself to the elegant nature of Jobelan fabric. Many stitchers find that complex, ornate designs look wonderful on this fabric. In addition, samplers have an authentic, old-world appearance when stitched on Jobelan.
Anything Else?
One other factor you should consider with Jobelan fabric is the size of the needle you plan to use. Since this fabric has a high thread count, you may want to use a smaller needle, such as a #26. The selection of a needle size is one of personal preference, but many stitchers find that with fine thread fabrics, a smaller needle makes it easier to stitch.
Generally, Jobelan fabric washes and irons well. As with all projects, though, you will want to make certain the thread is colorfast before washing a completed project. Many threads, such as silk, can bleed, so determine before washing if your thread is colorfast.
Finally, no matter what color of Jobelan you pick or what design you choose to stitch, you will find that this elegant, versatile fabric can help you create a cross stitch masterpiece you will treasure for years to come.
source: www.patternspatch.com
8 Tips For Left-Handed Stitchers
1.Stitch from the bottom upward
2.Stitch with the chart and fabric upside down.
3.Cross Stitch can be considered a generic needlecraft-art in that fabric, frames & hoops, charts, and tapestry needles really don't care whether the stitcher is left or right handed.
4.Mind you standard scissors are all designed for right handers, so perhaps lefties might prefer to source a pair of left-handed fabric scissors.
5.You could try gridding your fabric before starting. Doing this allows you to start anywhere you like instead of the traditional center point.
6.We think this is a patrticularly useful tip that you can use in all matters where the teacher and pupil are opposite handed. Simply sit or stand directly in front of the other person and look at them; it's just like looking into a mirror.
7.Get a floor- or lap-stand so you can work with both hands. It's easier on your shoulders and wrists, and you don't have to figure out what to do with the fabric.
8.Finally, just remember it doesn't matter which direction your cross stitches are going, as long as they all go in the same direction in the entire piece.
source: www.patternspatch.com
2.Stitch with the chart and fabric upside down.
3.Cross Stitch can be considered a generic needlecraft-art in that fabric, frames & hoops, charts, and tapestry needles really don't care whether the stitcher is left or right handed.
4.Mind you standard scissors are all designed for right handers, so perhaps lefties might prefer to source a pair of left-handed fabric scissors.
5.You could try gridding your fabric before starting. Doing this allows you to start anywhere you like instead of the traditional center point.
6.We think this is a patrticularly useful tip that you can use in all matters where the teacher and pupil are opposite handed. Simply sit or stand directly in front of the other person and look at them; it's just like looking into a mirror.
7.Get a floor- or lap-stand so you can work with both hands. It's easier on your shoulders and wrists, and you don't have to figure out what to do with the fabric.
8.Finally, just remember it doesn't matter which direction your cross stitches are going, as long as they all go in the same direction in the entire piece.
source: www.patternspatch.com
Friday, September 5, 2008
Determining the Width and Height of Your Design Area in Inches
Divide the number of symbol squares in the width of your design chart (literally count the number of symbol squares across the widest point of the chart, do not count the squares that are outside of the design) by the count of your fabric (the number of threads per inch). This will equal the width of your finished design area in inches.
Then divide the number of symbol squares in the height of your design chart by the count of your fabric. This will equal the height of your finished design in inches.
Example:
If you have a chart that is 28 squares high and 42 squares wide and you are going to embroider the design onto 14 count Aida, the formula would be:
28 squares ÷ 14 count = 2 inches high
42 squares ÷ 14 count = 3 inches wide
You will need to use this formula to determine how much fabric to buy if you change the count of the fabric recommended in the pattern instructions, or if there is no fabric count indicated. Just remember to add enough fabric to all sides of your design area for finishing, usually 4 to 6 inches to each edge.
There are a variety of symbols which appear in the squares of the chart. These symbols are keyed to a color chart and tell you what color floss to use. The written instructions tell you what stitch to use. A symbol, usually an arrow, will indicate where the center of the chart is located. It is from this center point that you begin to count out your design. If no such point is indicated, follow the guidelines below.
source: www.caron-net.com
Then divide the number of symbol squares in the height of your design chart by the count of your fabric. This will equal the height of your finished design in inches.
Example:
If you have a chart that is 28 squares high and 42 squares wide and you are going to embroider the design onto 14 count Aida, the formula would be:
28 squares ÷ 14 count = 2 inches high
42 squares ÷ 14 count = 3 inches wide
You will need to use this formula to determine how much fabric to buy if you change the count of the fabric recommended in the pattern instructions, or if there is no fabric count indicated. Just remember to add enough fabric to all sides of your design area for finishing, usually 4 to 6 inches to each edge.
There are a variety of symbols which appear in the squares of the chart. These symbols are keyed to a color chart and tell you what color floss to use. The written instructions tell you what stitch to use. A symbol, usually an arrow, will indicate where the center of the chart is located. It is from this center point that you begin to count out your design. If no such point is indicated, follow the guidelines below.
source: www.caron-net.com
Wednesday, September 3, 2008
How To Cross
A cross stitch consists of 2 diagonal stitches which together form an x, or cross. There are various ways you can do this, but you must be consistent about the direction of the stitches. If you start making a / and cover it with a \, all the stitches must have the upper stitch going \.
We suggest you stitch left to right. Come up at the lower left corner of the first stitch, then go down at the upper right, to make a /. Come up at the lower right and go down at the upper left, and that makes one cross.
If you have several stitches in a row, you can make all the / stitches across the row first, and then work back making the \ stitches. On the back, your stitching looks like this: |||||. (This is called Danish method.) You may prefer, at least in some situations, to complete each cross as you go. (This is called English method.) When you do that, the back looks like this: |/|/|/| You will definitely want to complete each cross as you go when stitching a vertical column - don’t go down the column making /s and then go back up with the \s! English method stitches are said to be sturdier -- this might be a consideration if your stitching will be used as a pillow cover or something that doesn’t just hang on the wall. The English method does use slightly more floss than Danish method (about 8% more).
You may prefer to start your crosses at some other corner - that’s fine - just pick a way and always do it the same way.
source: www.scarletquince.com
Tuesday, September 2, 2008
Supplies You'll Need to Cross Stitch
Needles -
You will need a tapestry needle or one that is labeled for the count of cross stitch fabric you wish to use. Tapestry needles have a blunt end and a large eye for easier threading. Keep an extra needle in case the first one breaks or bends. There is nickel, gold, and platinum plated needles. The gold and platinum needles last longer and slide easier than the traditional nickel plated needle. If you are a serious cross stitcher, you may want to consider gold or platinum. Tapestry needles come in a variety of sizes. The larger the number the smaller the needle is. Here are some recommendations for needle sizes for different counts of fabric:
Needle Size for Cross Stitch
fabric count 14 / 28 / 30 --- needle size 24
fabric count 16 /32 /35 ----- needle size 26
fabric count 18 / 40 -------- needle size 26
larger counts --------------- needle size 28
Floss -
Cross stitch is done with a 6 strand embroidery floss. DMC 100% cotton (which I always use, coz it’s easy to make cross stitch with this fabric), Moulibe Floss is a very popular brand. Most patterns call for 2 strands for cross stitches and one strand for back stitches. DMC also carries metallic floss called Light Effects. DMC Color Variations change the shade of the color as you sew for a unique effect. There are also specialty metallic and variegated threads. Kreinik is one of the most prevalent metallic threads used in cross stitch. There are several different sizes including blending filaments, #4, #8 and #12. They come in a variety of styles like braid, Japan thread, Cord, Cable, Vintage, High luster, Fluorescent, etc. There are also metallic threads by Glissen Gloss called Rainbow and Estaz. Needle Paints are cotton floss that comes in rich colors designed especially for Lavender and Lace patterns.
Floss is usually colorfast, which mean it does not run when washed. However, some people like to wash their floss before using it to be sure. If you choose to wash your floss before stitching with it, you will need to put each skein in a separate container of tap water. You can also use distilled water. If the floss makes the water colored, you should wash it again until it no longer makes the water colored. Dry your floss on a white paper towel or a white cloth towel. If it leaves any color on the towel, then start the process over again.
Cross Stitch or Embroider Hoop -
Hoops can be made out of plastic, metal, or wood and come in several different sizes. A hoop will keep your fabric taut while you stitch. There are also free standing hoops. Q-snaps are also an option for holding your fabric while you stitch. They snap apart for easy storage. To prevent creases from forming on your fabric, remove the hoop when you are not stitching and roll your fabric to store. I keep my fabric in a plastic bag while I am not working on it to avoid accidents. Some more experienced stitchers prefer to use no hoop at all. Others like to use a hoop when they work with Aida and no hoop when they used Linen fabric.
Scissors -
Use a sharp pair of small scissors to avoid frayed ends on your floss. There are many embroidery scissors or thread clippers to choose from. Clip the floss with a small tail or with no tail at all. It’s a matter of choice. Beware of ends showing through the fabric.
Source: http://www.juliesxstitch.com
You will need a tapestry needle or one that is labeled for the count of cross stitch fabric you wish to use. Tapestry needles have a blunt end and a large eye for easier threading. Keep an extra needle in case the first one breaks or bends. There is nickel, gold, and platinum plated needles. The gold and platinum needles last longer and slide easier than the traditional nickel plated needle. If you are a serious cross stitcher, you may want to consider gold or platinum. Tapestry needles come in a variety of sizes. The larger the number the smaller the needle is. Here are some recommendations for needle sizes for different counts of fabric:
Needle Size for Cross Stitch
fabric count 14 / 28 / 30 --- needle size 24
fabric count 16 /32 /35 ----- needle size 26
fabric count 18 / 40 -------- needle size 26
larger counts --------------- needle size 28
Floss -
Cross stitch is done with a 6 strand embroidery floss. DMC 100% cotton (which I always use, coz it’s easy to make cross stitch with this fabric), Moulibe Floss is a very popular brand. Most patterns call for 2 strands for cross stitches and one strand for back stitches. DMC also carries metallic floss called Light Effects. DMC Color Variations change the shade of the color as you sew for a unique effect. There are also specialty metallic and variegated threads. Kreinik is one of the most prevalent metallic threads used in cross stitch. There are several different sizes including blending filaments, #4, #8 and #12. They come in a variety of styles like braid, Japan thread, Cord, Cable, Vintage, High luster, Fluorescent, etc. There are also metallic threads by Glissen Gloss called Rainbow and Estaz. Needle Paints are cotton floss that comes in rich colors designed especially for Lavender and Lace patterns.
Floss is usually colorfast, which mean it does not run when washed. However, some people like to wash their floss before using it to be sure. If you choose to wash your floss before stitching with it, you will need to put each skein in a separate container of tap water. You can also use distilled water. If the floss makes the water colored, you should wash it again until it no longer makes the water colored. Dry your floss on a white paper towel or a white cloth towel. If it leaves any color on the towel, then start the process over again.
Cross Stitch or Embroider Hoop -
Hoops can be made out of plastic, metal, or wood and come in several different sizes. A hoop will keep your fabric taut while you stitch. There are also free standing hoops. Q-snaps are also an option for holding your fabric while you stitch. They snap apart for easy storage. To prevent creases from forming on your fabric, remove the hoop when you are not stitching and roll your fabric to store. I keep my fabric in a plastic bag while I am not working on it to avoid accidents. Some more experienced stitchers prefer to use no hoop at all. Others like to use a hoop when they work with Aida and no hoop when they used Linen fabric.
Scissors -
Use a sharp pair of small scissors to avoid frayed ends on your floss. There are many embroidery scissors or thread clippers to choose from. Clip the floss with a small tail or with no tail at all. It’s a matter of choice. Beware of ends showing through the fabric.
Source: http://www.juliesxstitch.com
TIPS: DON’T PUT YOUR DIRTY PAWS ON THE STITCHERY! KEEP YOUR HANDS CLEAN.
How?
1.Clean hands are the first defense against damage to Aida fabric. Wash your hands before stitching. Stop and wash your hands if you touch anything that may soil them while you are stitching. Gently ask anyone who wants to touch your cross stitching to wash his or her hands first.
2.Keep all tools and implements used on Aida fabric clean. Store scissors, marking pens, needles, and other tools in a safe place and dedicate them to cross stitching.
3.If you use a hoop, clean it with alcohol or mild detergent and allow to completely dry. Frames should be held by the frame and not the fabric. The natural oils from your hands may eventually stain the fabric.
4.To avoid creases, store Aida rolled up or flat instead of folded. A crease may be next to impossible to iron out, and fading may occur along the folds.
5.Clean Aida with cool water and a very mild detergent. If bright flosses bleed, keep rinsing the project with cool water until it runs clear. Do not wring Aida out. Press it between the folds of a clean white towel to remove most of the water and lay it flat to dry in a safe location. Iron before completely dry.
source: http://crossstitch.about.com
1.Clean hands are the first defense against damage to Aida fabric. Wash your hands before stitching. Stop and wash your hands if you touch anything that may soil them while you are stitching. Gently ask anyone who wants to touch your cross stitching to wash his or her hands first.
2.Keep all tools and implements used on Aida fabric clean. Store scissors, marking pens, needles, and other tools in a safe place and dedicate them to cross stitching.
3.If you use a hoop, clean it with alcohol or mild detergent and allow to completely dry. Frames should be held by the frame and not the fabric. The natural oils from your hands may eventually stain the fabric.
4.To avoid creases, store Aida rolled up or flat instead of folded. A crease may be next to impossible to iron out, and fading may occur along the folds.
5.Clean Aida with cool water and a very mild detergent. If bright flosses bleed, keep rinsing the project with cool water until it runs clear. Do not wring Aida out. Press it between the folds of a clean white towel to remove most of the water and lay it flat to dry in a safe location. Iron before completely dry.
source: http://crossstitch.about.com
Monday, September 1, 2008
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